The Beef’n’Barrel seems preserved in amber: the floral wall paper, the stained glass, the captain’s chairs (they remind me that, yes, my butt is getting a bit too wide). Behind the glass, a stout man carves sheets of rare meat from a steamship round. Order the Beef on Kimmelwick Special; be brave with the horseradish!
NOTE: If you are wondering what a beef on weck is, the beef is self-explanatory, and the kimmelwick is a soft, eggy, very slightly-sweet roll, crusted with caraway seed and coarse salt. This sandwich is always served with a wee vat of hot horseradish on the table. There are many awful versions, produced in bars all over upstate New York. The best examples require a kitchen with serious beef skills, which this family restaurant has in excess. (If you have room for dessert, they have a crispy cream puff shell, filled with homemade vanilla ice cream, and topped with lovely, slightly grainy chocolate sauce. No, this isn’t a restaurant for healthy eating!)